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Day 1
Friday 13th / Sat 14th May – Euston Station to Bealach Duibh Leac
Scotland here I come, crossing number six. At some point during the previous five Scotland had thrown just about all it could at me. Last year it had been a heat wave in Moidart. In 1985 I had been struck by torrential rain and lightning on Beinn A’ Ghlo. In 1983 it had rained on every day of the Challenge and our crossing of Rannoch Moor really was like walking across a wet sponge for two days. On this Challenge I was starting with a positive attitude and no matter what happens we will stick to the planned route and battle through….ho ho, has Scotland got a surprise in store for me!.
Friday evening (Friday 13th) saw Avril & myself at Euston Station embarking the night sleeper to Fort William in company with Chris Sainty, a long time Challenge walking companion. After the usual 12 hour trundle at 30mph we arrived in FW with three hours to wait for the bus to Shiel Bridge, but we were adjacent to Safeways (now Morrisons) so we picked up lunch and had cups of tea in the sunshine while waiting.
The ride to Shiel Bridge promised some spectacular walking over the coming weeks and excited us as we had not walked this far north in the Highlands. After signing in/out at the hotel we left Alan Price and Dave Owen to finish their lunch while we set out for the bealach below the South Kintail Ridge (Bealach Duibh Leac) to meet our walking partners for much of the walk, Joe & Jean Brown, who had come up the previous day to claim a couple of tops while waiting for us to arrive.
On our way to the bealach we were caught by Michael Rea who intended to cross the bealach to meet some friends at the Tomdoun Hotel in the morning. After meeting with Joe & Jean, Michael thought that it may be interesting to walk the ridge with us the following day as he had not yet been on a Munro.
Day 2
Sunday 15th May – Bealach Duibh Leac to Alltbeithe Farm
Twelve hours later Michael must have wondered what he had got himself into as we battled our way over Sgurr an Lochain in 60mph gusts and driving rain. I was now having second thought about wearing shorts, this now seemed like a silly idea and I was forced to don over trousers, the only time on the whole trip. Scottish weather was threatening not only to (frost) bite my legs but was working its way north to more delicate parts of my anatomy.
There was no future in being here so Avril & I caught the others on the top of Sgurr an Doire Leathain (our third Munro). I shouted at Joe from about two feet away that we had better get off while we could and, as he had been thinking the same, five bedraggled Challengers arrived at Alltbeithe Farm at three in the afternoon after taking eight hours to complete three Munros – it felt as though we had completed the whole Challenge in one day.
During our “epic” I had managed to lose my camera case (blown out of my hand while using the camera) and the map complete with case. After a hot drink Michael set off for the Tomdoun to meet his friends whilst we walked down to the road and found a sheltered spot amongst the gorse and pitched for the night, on the wrong side of the ridge having completed only three of our projected ten Munros. So much for my positive attitude, it was no match for the Scottish weather!
Day 3
Monday 16th May – Alltbeithe Farm to Invergarry
The next morning depression descended as low as the clouds when we realised that we had the prospect of two days road walking to get to Fort Augustus. So it was head down and best foot forward, which in Avrils’ case was difficult as she had blisters on both heels (as usual) despite having them padded and plastered before we started walking.
Day 4
Tuesday 17th May – Invergarry to Blackburn bothy
After a night spent on a very expensive camp site at Invergarry (£2 per person and 10p for almost anything else), we headed for the Caledonian Canal alongside which we plodded in torrential rain as far as the second lock before the rain stopped, and so did we for a brew. No sooner had we finished than up popped Bernie Hynes and David Call. So, in improving weather and rising sprits, we strolled into Fort Augustus in time for lunch and a provisioning trip to the local shops.
In the afternoon we walked on to the start of the Corrieyairick and at last we had some views, forward to the Monadhliaths and back over the ground we had covered during the past two days. Going only as far as Blackburn Bothy we pulled in for the night. On the way up we had passed some nice camping spots but thought that after the bothy they may become more difficult to find, and more exposed. After dinner the cloud began to clear and we were looking at a cold night but no complaints as all-round it had been a much better day than it promised when we first stuck our heads out of the tent in the morning.
Day 5
Wednesday 18th May – Blackburn Bothy to Garva Bridge
There had been some heavy rain in the night and we awoke to heavy threatening skies which proceeded to dump rain on us as we broke camp. It was a long pull up hill from the bothy along General Wades’ Military Road (or what is left of it) with the weather getting worse all the time. At the point where we were due to leave the track across to Corrieyairack Hill we could see no more than 25 metres so we decided to abandon that attempt and try for the Monadhliaths tomorrow.
Continuing down the track we arrived at Melgarve Bothy in time for lunch.
Here two lads with bikes had left the fire going so we dried out a bit. Leaving the bothy at 12:30 we only did another 6km and decided to camp at Garva Bridge even though it was only 2pm.
At least we were in the right place for a crack at the hills on Thursday.
Day 6
Thursday 19th May – Garva Bridge to Kingussie
We left Garva bridge with the intention of ascending Geal Charn but it disappeared before our very eyes as the cloud came down well below 600 metres. We then started the long road walk to Kingussie following the line of General Wades’ Road past the Monadhliath Hotel where we met up again with Jo & Jean who had stopped for coffee. Soon after this we found a phone box and Avril rang her school to give a progress report. It was still raining with very poor visibility towards the hills.
Taking lunch in the forest the rain began to subside and stopped altogether as we approached the Falls of Truim. We crossed the A9 and went back on to Wades’ Road, a good track across the moor, via Phones. After one stop we realised that I had left the camera hanging on a fence post, this entailed a walk back to retrieve it of over two kilometres. Avril pushed on, as she had the map she left stone markers at every junction for me to follow, and I caught her as she was fording a burn near Luibleathann. We reached Kingussie at about 5:40 and booked in to The Heritage B&B with very sore, tired feet. We ate out at The Royal Hotel, not wonderful, and then partook of a few drinks with other Challengers before retiring to bed at 10pm.
Day 7
Friday 20th May – Kingussie to Ruigh-aiteachain Bothy
Staying at a B&B always leads to a late start and after we had done our shopping we did not leave town for Ruthven Barracks until 10:20. We left the road opposite the barracks and climbed the hillside to drop down to Glentromie Lodge where we met two very nice black labs. After a road walk of about 11/2 km we climbed the hillside of Maola’ Ghiubhais and entered the forest.
After taking lunch by the Allt Chomhraig we crossed the valley and walked outside the forestry to the track and down to Ruigh-aiteachain Bothy by 5:00 to find Jenny Roberts, Ray & Cynthia, Chris and many others already ensconced. At 8:30 Mic & Lindsey arrived footsore from walking from the Monadhliath Hotel via Kingussie in one go.
10pm and so to bed.
Day 8
Saturday 21st May – Ruigh-aiteachain Bothy to White Bridge
As neither of us like sleeping in bothies, too noisy and too cold usually, so we woke at first light to find the weather had deteriorated during the night but signs were that the cloud was breaking so we decided to climb up to the plateau and try for a few Munros.
When we actually got on top our original route taking in Devil’s Point looked a bit too much so we headed for Mullach Clach a’ Bhlair then on to Monadh Mor and finally Beinn Bhrotain. Almost from the summit there was a splendid snow slope heading gently south east towards the Dee so we tramped down this at a high rate of knots stopping only at a burn for a brew and wash & brush up.
From then on it was simply a gentle wander down to the Dee and White Bridge where we found Billy, Chris and the Rainbow Girls soon to be joined by Ron & Joan Smith and the Crooks.
Day 9
Sunday 22nd May – White Bridge to Braemar
We had our Sunday morning lay-in before leaving the camp site at 8am and walked into Braemar passing Roger & Tina packing up. We stopped for a brew at Mar Lodge and arrived in Braemar at 11:50. Stopped for lunch at The Fife Arms and met too many friends to list. We booked in to Callater Lodge B&B and had a very nice evening meal before returning to the Fife for a couple of drinks before bed.
Day 10
Sunday 18th May – Braemar to Tolmount
Leaving our B&B at 9:40 we had a leisurely walk up to Loch Callater where we found about a dozen Challengers having a well earned break after the arduous 4 miles from Braemar. Stopping for only 15 minutes we headed up the southerly track to Carn an Turic then to Cairn of Claise, Tom Budhie and Tolmount.
We camped just after the last Munro and were joined by Chris Sainty who decided to camp alongside us.
Total Munros so far – 10.
Day 11
Tuesday 24th May – Tolmount to Spittal of Glen Muick
Leaving the camp site we went to Fafernie where we left our sacks to do Carn Bannock and Broad Cairn, Chris left us and went on to Glen Doll, we returned to collect the sacks and met Jo & Jean who had just done Carn an t-Sagairt Mor, after a chat we went our separate ways which meant for us on to Carn an t-Sagairt Mor, White Mounth and Lochnagar (where Avril stood on the summit, Cac Carn Beag) via The Stuic. From Lochnagar we dropped down the Glas Allt to the house and a tea break thence to the Spittal where we introduced ourselves to Mary Potts and installed ourselves in the attic bothy. (In 1989 it was still possible for Challengers to make use of the Mountain Rescue crash pad at the Spittal of Glen Muick). We had just started preparing our dinner when Ray and George came in. Willie & Mary came round for a chat and stayed until about 11pm. We went to bed very tired after a very long day.
P.S. Willie allowed us to feed his pet stag!
Day 12
Wednesday 25th May – Spittal of Glen Muick to Tarfside
We woke very early, about 5am, as it was very hot despite the windows being wide open. We crept downstairs, breakfasted and packed up then popped over to the toilets for a wash in hot water and saw a Cuckoo on the fence about 25mt away.
On our return Ray & George appeared so after a brief chat, during which we found out that they would be following us over to Tarfside, we left the bothy at 7:15 and set off in the mist up the glen and over to Shielin of Mark Bothy on a compass bearing arriving at 8:30. Passing up no opportunity we stopped for a brew and a chat with two young Challengers who had passed the Spittal bothy the previous evening not knowing that it was there.
Leaving the bothy at 9:30, still needing the map & compass, it was over Muckle Cairn and down to Loch Lee and a brief stop at the bothy before taking the good track alongside the loch. Half way down the loch we stopped for lunch and Dave Neil Gothard (better known as Vatman) wandered along and we walked together as far as the car park where we parted company and headed past Westbank to reach The Parsonage at 2:30. We were met by Jo & Jean to learn that Jo had sprained an ankle and had had quite a torrid time over the past few days.
Dropping our packs outside the front door we joined several Challengers in the front parlour for large helpings of tea & cake. I popped up stairs for a quick bath before too many Challengers came streaming in. The first sitting for dinner had finished before Ray & George came in, just forestalling a search party heading out to look for them. They had been ready to leave the bothy at 9:00 when Willie & Mary called in for a chat and they could not get away before 10:30, hence the late arrival!
After a splendid meal we spent a pleasant evening in good company before retiring to the tent and bed by 10:30.
Day 13
Thursday 26th May – Tarfside to Waterton Farm
Today has been a most interesting one.
We had a lovely breakfast at Mrs. Gutheries and did not leave until 8:45. Leaving Tarfside we crossed the Esk on the rickety suspension bridge and took the usual path to Edzell. Daundering alongside the river we looked up and saw an eagle but it disappeared before we could get the binoculars out. Soon after this we saw a Greater Spotted Woodpecker and a Tree Creeper. Finally another eagle popped over the horizon while we were sitting having our morning tea break, or maybe the same one returning.
We left the path and were walking down the road when a tiny mouse came out of the verge and ran down the road towards us closely followed by a stoat which promptly caught it, killed it and vanished back into the grass.
Reaching Edzell in time for lunch we stopped at the Tuck Inn, then did a bit of shopping for the evening and visited the bank before leaving town for the two mile walk to Waterton Farm where we asked permission to camp for the night. Permission came with 10 eggs for our breakfast and the news that Mic had passed through last night.
Soup and a roll for tea and an early night, it had been a very nice day.
Day 14
Friday 27th May – Waterton Farm to St Cyrus
An easy final day took us via the minor roads in to St. Cyrus where a trip down to the beach saw us dipping our boots into the sea before catching a bus into town and walking to The Park to sign off.