A journey across Scotland
All content © Gordon Green
Thursday 7 May 2009 – the day before the start
Home to Strathcarron
Full of nerves and anticipation, I set off for Birmingham airport. I live only 25 minutes from the airport and my wife, Barbara, is driving me off to the start of my first TGO Challenge. I got to the airport far too early and had to hang around, what seemed like ages before my flight to Inverness was called.
My backpack and walking poles had been enveloped in a protective outer and sealed with duct tape to protect it during the flight. My backpack contained all the essential gear, together with a few last minute extras: two packets of both Ibuprofen and Paracetamol. Just two weeks before , while on Kinder, I developed a pain on the inside of my left knee. At the Backpackers Club AGM, that weekend, I was limping around like someone who had just finished the Challenge – not someone who was trying to get into the peak of fitness!
The flight was uneventful: what did stand out was the fresh snow on the mountains as the flight got nearer to Inverness. At the airport it took me ages to unseal the cover of my backpack. It was whilst doing this that I got talking to Sally Dodwell, the first fellow Challenger that I met in Scotland. I later joined Sally and John Dodwell on the bus into Inverness centre. The time passed quickly. It was good to talk to fellow Challengers at such an early stage. We arrived in Inverness, where I said goodbye to John and Sally, as they left to catch a bus to their start point.
I had some time to pass in Inverness and wandered around the town looking for gas, lighters and good cheap whisky. The first two were easy to find, but, getting the whisky was not so easy. Eventually, I got a bottle of single malt for £15 from the Co-op. It was whisky of the month and was reduced from £24. It’s name escapes me. Later, I sat in the shopping centre decanting the whisky in to plastic bottles, trying hard to not look like I was drinking the entire bottle in one go!
The sight of people walking around Inverness with packs on their backs was becoming usual for the afternoon. Where they all went before the train journey, I know not. Eventually, at the station there was a small gathering of fellow Challengers. It was the Rab fleece with logo that gave them away. All boarded the train to Kyle of Lochalsh and the many drop off points for the various starts. The train seemed to be 50:50 Challengers and locals.
I soon got talking to Alistair Hunt from Cheltenham. He introduced me to Rob and Lisa Hausam from the USA, who were sitting right behind me. Rob was the first of many Challengers I was to meet who I felt I knew already; through the many websites and blogs.
The journey over to Strathcarron was very picturesque. The arrival was a wet one. All those getting off the train were greeted by a heavy downpour. The lucky ones headed for the hotel. The hardy ones headed for the camping spots near to the hotel. It turned out to be a stormy night outside. Inside the hotel, a few drinks were consumed along with a few meals. Then it was time to be off to bed for some not-quite-as-relaxed-as-it-could-be sleeping. The weather continued to be wet and windy all night.
Day 1
Friday 8 May 2009 – Off I go – Strathcarron to Iron Lodge
After a hearty breakfast, it was time to pay the bill and go. Would my knee be OK? Would I get through the day without getting lost? Would the rain ever stop?
The first two were OK, but, the rain continued, on and off all the day. It was joined by hail and snow and ranged in intensity from light to torrential. The background hills were covered in fresh snow; not a good omen for going high on Saturday. Bendronaig Lodge was a good stopping point for lunch. I arrived there alone, but, was soon joined by a small gathering which included Alvar and Ann Thorn, Ali Ogden and Sue and others (here starts the: I-have-a-useless-memory-for-the-names-of poeple-I-just-got-introduced-to phase). Three men took the seats while the others, men and women, took to the floors. I made my knee an excuse for keeping the seat – after all it was suspect and the sitting position did help ease the slight ache.
Then Ali explained her knee problem; heavy bandage and support etc. I made a timely exit thinking to myself – you big wimp, Gordon! Get some real problem to worry about. By this time Alistair, who walked with me near Strathcarron, was way in front of me.
I left the Lodge in the company of Jack Addison and we walked and chatted together until we reached the far end of Loch Calavie. Here, I went due south, whilst Jack continued on towards Pait Lodge.
The day’s fun started here. First, getting across the outlet to the Loch involved negotiating a wire contraption that gave very little in the way of confidence to a backpacker with a lump on his back. It was a question of go for it and, as luck would have it, I made it across without any problems. Then due south. But, due south was over some pretty nasty looking peat hags. I decided to keep as high as possible before descending over the unavoidable peat hags and finally getting near to the Allt an Loin-fhiodha and Loch Croushie. John Donohoe, my vetter, had given me a grid reference point for a crossing point, which was a little up-stream. Up spate more like.
The river was fast flowing and high with the snow melt and rain. It took me over an hour to negotiate the many inlets to the river, avoiding the deep mud and mire, to eventually reach where I was advised to cross. It looked deep! It was deep! Off with the boots and socks and on with the Crocs. Trousers hitched up round my waist (Cioch trews are ideal for this manoeuver). Poles out forward: face the flow and – go. The water was up to the top of my thighs and was freezing. Somehow, I stayed upright and made it across. After drying off my legs and feet, I put my boots back on and walked to Maol-bhuidhe bothy.
Smoke was issuing from the chimney. A good sign? No! In the bothy there was Alistair drying off his gear. He and another (later I found out it was Pat Deane) had swam across the outlet to the Loch! Pat was upstairs in his sleeping bag. Alistair was getting the fire going. They had been there for three to four hours. I had to get to Iron Lodge, so I had a brief chat with Alistair and then set off. Later, I would get the full story. The river outside was in spate, barring my way to the path, so I went up its side until I reached a crossing point. That was a Crocs crossing point. Trews up. And, over. Boots on, and, off. Hardly anytime later, another stream in good flow. Oh well! – first of about six wet feet crossings. Once your feet are wet, you don’t have to worry about getting them any wetter.
The path eventually brought Iron Lodge into sight. I could see a tent outside (a good sign) and a figure entering the building. When I got to the building, I knocked on the door. When it was answered, I asked whether it would be OK to camp outside? To my surprise I was invited in by a fellow Challenger. The Lodge was derelict and, he and two others had the bedrooms upstairs. I had the living room in which to sleep. I can’t remember their names – in fact I only met one. The carpet was still down and the Lodge had not been totally trashed, so, it was a very comfortable place to sleep in. Water came from a small stream that ran into the main river. Joke and Jeff Cracknell were the couple in the tent; they had thought the Lodge was locked when they tried the door earlier, but it just needed a hard shove.
Day 2
Saturday 9 May – a FWA day – Iron Lodge to Alltbeithe
The weather dictated the day. It was still wet and windy. There had been fresh snow on the tops overnight. so, Mam Sodhail ridge and it’s eight Munros would have to await a future visit. Instead it was off to Carnach and Easaich falls, which looked spectacular in the distance. I could see three figures way up ahead. Soon they became people; Barbara, Vicky and Kathy. Barbara was on her 10th crossing and was, I found out later, only 80 years young. After a brief chat, I wished them well and continued over very wet and sometimes pathless ground to the top of Glen Affric.
Heavy showers punctuated the day. It was at this point where I met Des Horan. He was walking at about the same pace as me and we chatted away while heading towards Alltbeithe hostel. At the hostel there was a crowd of people who were setting off further down the Glen. Their names escape me, although, when I was praising John Donohoe for his grid-referenced crossing point, I was introduced to Marie Donohoe.
Much to my surprise there were spare beds in the annex. I ended up sharing a room with Grant and Bill. The evening passed with a group of French folk and Challengers preparing variations on a theme around de-hydrated food. And, some of the whisky from the Inverness Co-op was still left.
Day 3
Sunday 10 May 2009 – Summer – Alltbeithe to Cougie
What a change! The day was sunny and a cool breeze helped to keep me from over-heating. Des and I continued our chat as we walked along. We were joined by “Steady” Eddie near the Loch, by the bridge. Here we sat and took in the spectacular scenery. Day walkers and cyclists came and went and later Rob and Lisa Hausam arrived on the bridge.
Today’s problem was going to be de-hydration, so I took all opportunities to drink from the streams – trouble was they were few and far between. The route over to Cougie involved a muddy tramp up the Allt Garbh until it reached more levelish ground. Behind Mam Sodhail was taunting me with it’s covering of snow and clear conditions. But, not this time – a high camp in the snow and wind was not what I had in mind.
The route to Cougie was along an old right of way with no sign of any human activity – until Cougie. My mind had visions of a small building and a few animals. Reality was a mix of buildings that took one side of an open space that took in an oasis (OK – lake) and a menagerie of animals.
And, then there was the wonderful welcome from Tina and Sasha. Tina was Valerie Pocock’s daughter and Sasha was Iain’s wife. Unfortunately, Valerie was none too well, so I never met her. My vetter, John Donohoe had said that she would be very hospitable. Tina and Sasha were just as warm and welcoming. Rooms were allocated and orders taken for dinner. Des, Eddie and I were joined by Nigel and Lynn, who were into dog rescuing in the USA. It later transpired that they also did mean tricks with computers and were involved with a little company called Microsoft. Later another couple of Challengers joined us for dinner. Over a good meal, washed down with a few beers, we exchanged our experiences of the last few days and had a very relaxing evening. Iain explained the set up at Cougie – pony trekking, camping and a whole range of animals. School for the kids was a quad-bike and bus ride away. Play time was all around the oasis and beyond. What a lifestyle!
Day 4
Monday 11 May 2009 – the longest day – Cougie to Fort Augustus
Des, Eddie and I set off together after a hearty breakfast and fond farewells to our superb hosts. Such was the banter between us that we missed the turning up to the bealach on the way towards Torgyle bridge – eventually! We soon realised this and came back to start the slog up to the bealach. From here, Iain had suggested it was best to keep to the line of the fledgling river that started on the bealach. We did, and must have added a good few k’s to our route plans.
Either side of the Allt na Muic were peat hags and boggy ground. The river twisted and wound it’s way downhill and we had to twist and turn too, to by-pass the wet soggy, boggy bits. Still, it was another warm day and it was good to stop and paddle our feet in the river a couple of times before we reached the road down to Torgyle bridge. We later heard that some had made Torgyle bridge their overnight stopping place. Not us. Our estimation was that we would be in Fort Augustus by around 2030. So, we started up the track. Once again, we missed our turning and had to double back. This was only a few minutes added on. However, the track went on and on ……….and on. Our ETA was falling back, the closer we got to Fort Augustus: 2030, 2100, 2130, 2200……….. When Fort Augustus came into sight, we had settled on around 2200; time for a pint and some fish and chips.
We repeated our overshooting-off-the-track trick in the trees as dusk gradually descended into darkness. So, we came back on ourselves and found the right path. The trees eventually threw us out in the outskirts of Fort Augustus nearer 2240. The good news was that I got a pint near by the locks. When I said that I was aiming for the campsite, the Landlady explained that they did not take tents. I tried to explain that they would make an exception for me, but, my explanation did not seem convincing. So, I guess she was a little perplexed when I set off after a 10 second pint! She must have thought I was either royalty, or, determined to cause problems by insisting I was going to camp regardless. I don’t think the mention of the Challenge was very clear – butI had walked 14 hours!! Des got to his B and B just in time. Eddie and I pitched our tents at 2300. No food. Just bed. Still, the night was clear and there were some other Challengers safely asleep in their tents. 14 hours after starting out from Cougie, I got to bed.
Day 5
Tuesday 12 May 2009 – Corrieyairack Pass – Fort Augustus to Garva Bridge
First things first: my evening meal! Strangely, I had not felt hungry when we arrived at the campsite, but, I can recommend Mountain House de-hydrated food for breakfast – on occasion.
The initial plan was to wander in to Fort Augustus along the canal and pick up a few bits and pieces, including more single malt to replenish the empty plastic bottles. Also, Des and I were to meet by the road bridge. By the time I was ready to set off it was getting near to 1000 – our agreed meeting time. I did set off, but, turned back. It was another warm day and by the time I would get to the village, it would be well past 1000. Eddie was also on his way to the Post Office, so, he agreed to post a package for me (a map that was no longer needed).
I set off by myself heading for the Corrieyairack Pass and on to Garve Bridge. Not to miss out on yesterday, I missed the turning point off the main road and had to double back. Meanwhile Des had realised that I was not around and set off. Just before leaving the road I stopped for a break and saw a figure with a white sun hat approaching in the distance.
So, Des and I shared another day of chat and experiences. It is good for a solo walker to meet someone with the same sort of pace, and, with whom it is a pleasure to pass the time as we walked along. The pass wound it’s way up and up – past Blackburn bothy – near where we cooled off our feet in the burn. And onwards to the summit. Oldish snow still covered the path in places and there was a noticably cool wind as we got near the top. Then, it was downhill all the way. Pylons and the odd few Challengers were our company as the rough track descended into less rough track and eventually led to Garva bridge.
We were early. It was only 20.00! We pitched just over the road from the river. Near to us were Bill and Brian, who I had met and chatted to at the Backpackers Club AGM a few weeks earlier. Steve Miller was camped over near the river and we had a brief chat when I went to fetch water for my second dinner of the day. There were quite a few others around what was a good stopping point. Sleep came easy.
Day 6
Wednesday 13 May 2009 – Summer continued – Garva Bridge to Kingussie
A late-ish start – most others had already left. And then – road walking! And it was a warm, dry day. The sights were good and the company on route was also good. So, on to Laggen Stores. Here we were a motly crew: Rory, Bill, Brian and a fair number of others.
After a sunny rest and a can of coke, it was back on the road. Only as far as the hotel, over the bridge and along. This proved a popular staging post. Most stayed outside, but Des and I stayed inside and shared a table and a couple of pints with Dave Godfrey. Too much sun is not supposed to be good for you. The pints went down well. Then, it was back on the road again. On the way to Glen Truim campsite we passed Nigel and Lynn. Then over the main road and up a track to join the military road that led from Phones into Kingussie – or, nearly.
We managed a wrong turn and arrived at the main road too soon. So, we walked along the main road for a mile, or so, before climbing down a bank and on to a road that led out to the junction near Ruthven Barracks. The rest of the walk in to town was uneventful. Des popped into the Silverfjord Hotel and I continued on to the Tipsy Laird. I arrived very early – at 18.30.
There were others there, but, I was keen on two things: room and food – with wine. The room was right at the top of the hostel bit and I had it all to myself. A quick shower preceded the food. I ate in the restaurant bit, where I had a couple of pints and a very filling chilli with rice and chips – and wine.
Then I became more sociable and joined the others – not long before they all retired for the night. Grant, who I met in Glen Affric, was there, together with Russ, Colin, John and Jon, plus the two couples I met on leaving the Hotel in Strathcarron. After a brief chat it was time for bed.
Day 7
Thursday 14 May 2009 – a fine sunny, half day – Kingussie to Ruighaiteachain
Breakfast was two pints of milk which washed down some Crunchies and chocolate bars whilst sat on a bench on the main road. Must be another Challenge thing? Then it was back down the road and on to Ruthven Barracks.
It was also strange walking by myself. At the Barracks I struck out on a track that would lead me over to Glen Tromie. Then it was along a road to another faint track that led into Inshriack Forest. I managed to negotiate the various tracks through the forest, coming out at a point near to Baileguish where the track ran out. So, it was down and across the shallow river, over the fence and on to the ruins. Here was a good place to stop for lunch – my usual Beef jerky and Green and Blacks chocolate. Other Challengers passed by in the distance: they had found a track that led to a bridge across the river.
After crossing the open ground it was back into the forest and the track down into Glen Feshie. Here, it was still some way to the Ruigh alteachain bothy, but, the views were good and the time soon passed before reaching the bridge across the river. I found myself a film star here. But, I can’t remember the name of who it was who was filming me crossing.
The bridge was an “At your own risk” one, but, seemed OK. The bothy was nearby. Jenny Headscalf was already there and looking for a good camping spot. It was 15.00 – a half day. I found a good pitch some distance from the bothy and relaxed for the rest of the day.
The bothy is somewhat unusual as it has its own loo as an annex to the main building. I had to avail myself of this and then went to the river to fetch a pail of water to flush the loo. I then found out that there was a pipe nearby that had been rigged up to provide a clean water source. Oh well.
Later Des and Russ passed by on their way to camp higher up in the Glen. Alistair, too, said hello and flew on up the Glen. Rory and companions camped near to me. In the bothy were Carl and others who spent the night there. Jim, from Ireland came in with others and some whisky was consumed before I retired to my tent.
Day 8
Friday 15 May 2009 – Winter returns with a vengence – Ruighaiteachain to Linn of Dee (ish)
It started raining in the morning and more on than off all day. There was a bitter cold, strong North wind and all the walking for the day was into this very cold, wet environment.
It was not a pleasant tramp that day. I eventually stopped at Red House for a cup of soup and met Alan Jordan, who had camped near to me at the bothy last night. We ended up walking together to a sheltered spot at 057897, not far from the Linn of Dee. This was down a bank towards the river and beneath a canopy of trees. It was reasonably sheltered from the wind and rain. Rain that dripped from the trees hit the tent like bullets. The hard driving rain seemed to come down in sheets as I looked out from the comfort of my tent.
The wind and rain continued all night.
Day 9
Saturday 16 May 2009 – the fleshpots of Braemar
It was still raining to start the morning. We were up and away by 0830 and soon bumped into others who had weathered the storm. Mar Lodge soon came into sight. Here, coffee and tea was on offer, so a brief stop was in order before proceeding to Braemar.
Just outside the Fife Arms I recognised Shirley Worrall’s jacket; and Peewiglet too. Shirley had decided to buy her Cioch Glamaig following a piece I wrote on the notice board. We talked jackets before I moved on. I didn’t realise at the time, but, Colin Ibbotson was with her.
I found a B&B with no single room – but there was a twin room with one Challenger in it. He was willing to share, I was informed. I decided – no. Then I was told there was a double room available – so, great.
On the way to the campsite – to pick up a parcel – I met John Manning who was looking for a room. I told him about the option of sharing the twin room and he jumped at the chance. It turned out the other twin was Alistair, who I had met on the first and subsequent days on the Challenge.
I popped down in to the village where I had an all day breakfast and chat with Vince. Vince was from the USA and had only heard about the Challenge three weeks earlier. Then it was a couple of pints in the Fife Arms where I also met Alan Jordan and Jan and Chris. Then back to the B&B for a shower and a rest. Then it was along to the Fish and Chip shop where all of the Challengers in Braemar seemed to be gathered. It was a long walk to the Moorfield House Hotel! Most of the time I spent in the bar – rather than in the Bingo Wings canopy. I chatted to quite a few others but memory fades names – sorry. I was good, in only having three pints of Trade Winds – a very tasty pint.
Back at the B&B we (Alistair, John and I) sat and chatted to a couple who had been cycling from Lands End to John O’Groats. Unfortunately, he had been advised not to continue. I never did register who had won the Eurovision song contest which was on the television in the background. Not that I was at all interested.
Day 10
Sunday 17 May 2009 – a chance to go high – Braemar to the Sheilin of Mark
Breakfast was superb. It was hard to get going. But, I eventually did. The weather forecast said Monday would be not very good. But, today would be. So, change of plan. Instead of a short day down to Loch Callater Lodge – on and upwards to Lochnagar and beyond. I rang my change of plan in to Challenge Control and set off down the road towards Loch Callater.
After leaving the road I met Jim from Doha (Doha – I think) He was looking for some geo-caches. And then explained what these were. Folk hid things (what?) and others had to find them off the back of grid references. We chatted for a while before he was on the scent…………… So, bye Jim. What did he find?
Outside the Lodge I met Stan – the man. He was leaving to go down the road. Inside I met Bill and had a cup of coffee. Others were there and some were there for the day, it seemed. I had to forego the legendary hospitality for another time.
The path up to Carn an t-Sagairt Mor was superb. A good easy gradient and some great views. I got to the top of the Munro and met 4 hill walkers – not Challengers. We walked and chatted for a while as we crossed over towards Choire Bhoidheach. They then got way ahead, but I met them again at the top – a slight raise in the very round lump. Here, they went off down while I continued on towards Lochnagar. It was getting later in the day so I had Lochnagar and the great views to myself. Then, it was down to Spittal of Glenmuick. A long way down. Not far from the Glen I was surprised to hear a voice. It was Carl, who had come over from Braemar via Glen Gelder. I had not seen him as he approached. So, we walked together down to the Glen. Here, I set off for Sheilin of Mark, whilst Carl stopped for a break.
I passed two Challengers who had decided to camp by the side of Allt Darrarie. Then continued the long pull up towards the Sheilin. I had read on a blog that it was best to keep to the infant river that came in from the right, near the higher ground. This, I followed as it got less and less. There was a faint path. Then I hit the burn that would become the Water of Mark. But, no bothy!
It was getting later. No need to panic? No, just a few metres down the burn and there it was, the bothy with a few brussel sprouts dotted around. OK, tents……… but, from a distance?
I got to the bothy – openned the door and said hello to Jon, Nigel and Lynn. Then I announced my immediate intentions – I need a poo: see you later. Well, when you’ve got to go………….
I came back to find that Carl had arrived. I also apologised for my bit of too much information. After pitching my tent I filled up my platypus with brown water from the burn and then popped in to the bothy to prepare my Mountain House meal. It was getting cold. A quick meal and bed. Most of the others around the bothy had turned in at around 20.30, ie when I had arrived.
Day 11
Monday 18 May 2009 – wet way to go – Sheilin of Mark to Tarfside
The morning was dull and wet. Quite a few of my neighbours had already set off. It was going to be a compass bearing day. The mist and rain rolled down from the direction I was about to head into. I crossed the burn and struck off down the far bank where I met Alan Jordan, who was camped a distance away from the bothy. He was still packing up so I continued to make my way over the peat hags on a sort of compass bearing. Well, my navigation skills have improved since I’ve been coming up to Scotland, but, I would never say I was that good. Alan soon caught me up and we walked together; then we hit the track. In the mist, it was not much of a sight. A few more metres along the track and – the mist suddenly lifted. We could see where the track went; down into Glen Lee.
The mist went but the rain didn’t go. It chucked it down. We popped into the Stables of Lee and met others (sorry – memory!!). Then a wet march down the track towards Tarfside. There seemed to be a race going on. Others were well ahead of us. Alan and I arrived at St. Droston’s at 1300. We got the last proper room – sharing (others were able to grab sleeping space in the large hall nearby). Then the reknowned hospitality started. Bacon sandwiches, coffee and later cans of beer! No wonder St Droston’s was so well frequented. There were loads of us there. (And I was a day ahead of my original schedule – the next day, I was told would be just as busy).
Various conversations ensued. Bill and I discussed Local Authorities. Kate Foley and Andy Howell sat by me and we talked about their podcasting gear, (so small) as well as my Cioch jacket and trousers. There was talk of a podcast, but I must admit – the beer had flowed down too well. At one point this imposing figure sat next to me and introduced himself. It was Pat Deane who explained that it was he who had been in his sleeping bag at the bothy on the first day – having been for a swim with Alistair. Pat had done a 7 previous Challenges and a swim across a swollen river did not put him off! Pat took a day to get sorted out, but decided to continue. I wondered if I could have carried on after such an experience.
Day 12
Tuesday 19 May 2009 – Wet, cold, windy Wirrens – Tarfside, The Wirrens and North Water Bridge
There was talk last night of joining the caravan trail to North Water Bridge. I had another great bacon sandwich, washed down with coffee and set off. Was I going to be on the caravan trail – no. Did I later wish I had been on the caravan trail – well, no!
I set out for the Wirren Hills. Over the river and up a faint track. The rain soon got it’s act together and got heavy. The visability got less and I was enjoying the solitude. The caravan trail was along the river bank to Edzell. I think one other went my way. Near the wide ridge bit the fencing started. I even saw a landrover in the murk, but, it soon disappeared from sight. So, I was trying to hit my first top – West Wirren. Well, nobody was there to tell me the fence was electric! And getting to the first top involved crossing the fence – a few times. Now these fences are just about – well you could carefully, just, get over them without touching them between your legs. But, put a pack on and add uneven ground and a bit of wind! Shocking stuff.
Anyway, compass bearings were set for Hill of Wirren. This would be easy, with a trig point to aim for. Oh my goodness. I eventually found it in the middle of peat hags and fortified up to the hilt with shocking electric wires. When I reached it the weather, if anything, got worse. The peat hags did not look inviting. I made my way along a fence until I reached a crossing point. Problem was there was no path to follow. I cut round some more peat hags and eventually got to another fence. Logic said this would go round to send me off towards East Wirren. And then the sky cleared. For a minute. There was East Wirren. Where? Compass bearing again. At least I wasn’t lost?
The weather resumed its ugly stance. East Wirren came and went and next came Hill of Corathro. A Beef jerky lunch on the move – it was too wet and windy to stop – and down hill. I’m not a great fan of pylons, but, as the visibilty increased off the hills I could start to fix my position for sure. And I did. And I aimed for Margie. In the farm yard I saw a couple of men and asked one if this was Margie? Well, he was polite. It was, obviously! I knew where I was – didn’t I?
The rain hugged the hills, but had stopped by the time I reached Margie.
Then the walk into Edzell. The Tuck Inn was great. I joined a crowd of refugees and had a sausage sandwich and coffee. Then over to the convenience store for a bottle of wine. This would wash down the Mountain House meal that evening – (if only I knew). Heavy showers started. I lost my way to the footbridge. Then found it. The rain stopped for a while while I checked my route with the help of Jean and Jim and …. . Then it was down the farm track and on to the road. The road to North Water Bridge is long and straight and not very pleasant to walk down. Cars hare down this drag strip.
North Water Bridge campsite was littered with brussel sprouts – OK, tents. More rain just on getting there. Then in to check in. £4 a night – great. Then, Alistair, Richard and Andrew were hatching a plan. Taxi to Edzell and the Panmuir Hotel. I jumped at the chance and volunteered to spread the word. Maybe we would need two taxis. Oddly, not many did take this option. Maybe they, too, had carried a bottle of wine from Edzell to NWB and were intent (in tent) on making sure it was consumed.
I think it was about six of us who made it to the Panmuir. Alistair, Jim, John Manning, Richard, Andrew and me. Here we met Bill and Nigel and Lynn. When the menu came round I remember thinking – OMG – this is expensive. But, the food proved to be worth it! The company was on good form and I have never laughed so much for a long time. The flow of conversation was non-stop. Somehow, we got on to my windshirt – or it’s tiny sac. No offence, but this was the lightest pack ever – sub 2k. It came into and out of the discussion and kept us topped up with laughter. What a night. Those at the NWB campsite missed out here.
Day 13
Wednesday 20 May – on the road again – North Water Bridge to St Cyrus & Montrose
In the morning my tent was wet, but the day started and remained dry. The last day walking. Not too far down the road I stopped for a chat with Gordon Bruce, an ex-gamekeeper, who was mowing the grass of a fine looking house. He had seen many Challengers over the years. He told me about the days when he was in the forces and when he was a gamekeeper. We spent around 20 minutes just chatting – very interesting.
The roads to St Cyrus are over rambling hills – low level hills. St Cyrus appeared and then it was the final act. Down to the sea. It’s a long way down! A quick paddle – boots on and then back to the cafe. Here, Mick and Gayle and John Manning were in mid-order. The next bus to Montrose was about ten minutes away. I had little cash left so I worked someting for £5 – the minimum credit card payment – and wolfed it down just in time to get out for the bus.
The bus spewed us out in the town and we made our way to Challenge Control in the Park Hotel. There was Alan Hardy sorting out the T shirts etc., and Roger – the spider at the centre of his web. It was great to meet Roger at last. The bar was well stocked with Challengers and I passed away a few pints in good company before heading for the Montrose campsite. Andrew, Jean Nigel and lynn were among many who were there. The talk got round to food and so a vague plan was hatched. The pub and then Bombay Dreams – or, Bombay Delight, if your memory is not too good. It was a kind of open invite – not to be missed: especially, after the Panmuir night.
Later, Alistair, Jon, Mick, Gayle, Andy, Kate, Nigel, Lynn and I sat round a table at the Bombay Dreams and had a really good meal, a really good chat, in very good company.
Day 14
Thursday 21 May 2009 – the Celebrations
I met loads of folk on Thursday morning. Some were hobbling around. Others were almost skipping around. There was Jim, Colin and Jim, Russ, David, John, Chris among many. I spent the afternoon laying in my tent enjoying the not walking bit. Alistair, Nigel, Lynn and I met in the pub and enjoyed some Latitude (Atlas brewery; in Kinlochleven) and chat before making our way to the Park Hotel and the celebration dinner. We made our way over to a table at the far end of the room. Little did I know that this was the top table. I was within touching distance of Roger, Cameron and Chris Townsend – name dropper! Jon and Pat were there too along with Rob and Lisa and many, many others. It was a good celebration. Later I met Peewiglet and Jan and Chris and many, many others (aka I can’t remember).
Talk got round to an alternative real beer post dinner drinking session. Of course, I was ready for this! I’m not sure who talked – but, hey, go for it.
Years ago, while attending a Personnel Conference in Harrogate, I had the opportunity to go and see Ken Dodd at one of the local theatres. My boss and I decided to go to see another stand up act in another venue. Ken Dodd was on stage for over four hours. The other venue’s act; didn’t. There was me and my boss standing chatting to the stand up comedian. We were the only audience. Ken Dodd had captured all.
It was a bit like that at the George Hotel. Frank and I were, mainly, the sole folk who got to taste the real beer. We were joined by Chris and Sue for a while. Meanwhile the Park was the Ken Dodd venue equivalent! Still, it was good to meet and chat to Frank, Chris and Sue. A wobbly wander back to the campsite.
Going Home
Friday 22 May to Saturday 23 May 2009 – and so to home
Friday was weird. I had a train to catch on Saturday. So Friday was spent wandering around. I had booked a room in the Park for Friday night. So, I got there early. My room was available, so I put my stuff in there and wandered off to Tescos for breakfast. I bumped into a number of folk that day including the man himself: Alan Sloman. Alan is instantly recognisable and very well known, his blog is great and he was one of the many who I felt that I knew already.
That night I went back to the Bombay Dreams – by myself. The meal was good but the company was somewhat lacking. That night I opened the bottle of wine that I had carried from Edzell to St Cyrus to Montrose. And drank half it it – throwing away the rest. Thats the last time I carry wine from Edzell.
Saturday morning saw the gathering for the train brigade. Then, the off we go to all parts of the country and beyond. And thoughts of next year.
PS
I enjoyed this, my first Challenge. I met some great people and enjoyed their company. Many, who I met, and, talked to and remembered, I mentioned. Many, who I met and talked to and I didn’t remember will have to forgive me. You all made this a great first crossing. There are many memories ……….and, …………….. these are but a few.
Lastly, but not least:
Thanks to Roger and his crew at the centre of the Web that was Challenge Control and to the TGOC sponsors.
And, to my wife – who puts up with me going off on these crazy ventures.