Editor’s note: As soon as Derek Goffin told me about this route, I knew that many of you would be captivated by the idea. Many Challengers were forced on to lower level routes by the weather in 2009, which makes Derek & Ellie’s achievement all the greater. Me? I got exhausted just reading it!
Across the Top Half of The Highlands (the half above 1500 feet)
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All content © Derek Goffin
Introduction – and a few statistics
Ellie and I did our first challenge in 2007. Ellie did a solo challenge in 2008 although I joined her for the lovely ridge walk above Loch Monar to Beauly. I got to thinking, if you pieced together ridges to make a Challenge route how high could you stay?
So was born the idea of our 2009 Challenge walk, a real Challenge for us. The idea was to attempt to find the Challenge route across the Highlands that had the highest average height and then to see if we could walk it!
I know we have not found the sensible do-able highest Challenge route across the Highlands and we did not succeed in walking our route with maximum average height because high winds and cornices made us compromise on several occasions.
First some statistics: the table below shows the differences between our 2007 route our planned 2009 route and our actual 2009 route.
Our 2007 route was a Classic route, suitable for the challenge novices we were. We did it as a group of four with friends Barbara Sanders and Peter Kenyon, more experienced Challengers than us. It went: Sheil Bridge, Glen Affric, Cougie, Drumnadrochit, the ferry, over the Monhadliath passes to Kincraig, Glen More, then a plan to do Ben Macdhui which was foiled by gale force winds, instead we tried to get across a shoulder of Cairn Gorm to The Saddle, we were beaten back and went round lower by Bynack Stables to Glen Avon, Glen Builg, Ballater, Mount Keen, Tarfside, Edzell, St Cyrus.
| 2007 Route | Planned 2009 Route (actual figures in brackets) |
|---|---|
| Average altitude 347 metres | average altitude 627 metres (599m) |
| Duration: 14 days | Duration: 15 days |
| Number of Munros planned: 2 | Number of Munros planned: 42 |
| Number of Munros achieved 1 | Number of Munros achieved 32 |
| Days that challenge control required a FWA: 3 | Days that challenge control required a FWA: 12 |
| Most camps without re-supply 3 | Most camps without resupply 4 |
| Base Pack Weight per person 19 pounds | Base pack weight per person including ice axes 13 pounds |
| Total pack weight per person with 3 days food plus consumables 26 pounds | Total pack weight per person with 5 days food plus consumables 23 pounds |
| My bodyweight 11.5 stone | My bodyweight 10.5 stone |
| Wild Camp Nights 6 | Wild camp nights 12 |
| Average walking hours (by Naismith) 5.9 | Average walking hours (by Naismith) 8.28 (9.1) |
| Average daily distance 21 kilometres | Average daily distance 23.6 (25 kilometres) |
| Average daily ascent 774m | Average daily ascent 1613 (1692 metres) |
| Total distance 294 kilometres, 184 miles | Total distance 354 kilometres 222miles (399 kilometers 249 miles) |
| Total ascent 10,833 metres | Total ascent 24,204 metres (25,374 metres) |
Prelude
We were unsure whether to take ice axes and crampons as a lot of snow had cleared from the high tops, but more snow was predicted. I emailed Roger Smith for his snow cast and suggested that we take ice axes but leave our crampons behind. Roger agreed. My reasoning was that our ice axes are very light, titanium and carbon fibre ‘just in case’ axes, at 135 grams each. The snow would be new and soft so perhaps on average we would not need crampons. Our Kahtoolah crampons, which go with our inov8 shoes are very light but still weigh 620 grams a pair, so they would be worth leaving behind.
I got my son to text us key points from the MWIS weather forecast each day.
We packed with food for 5 days and got the train from Accrington to Glasgow meeting our first fellow challengers at Preston. The train from Glasgow to Oban seemed full of rucksacks and people acticipating the Challenge. We had hoped to camp at Oban, but when we arrived the wind was so strong, and raining too, so We decided to book into the Youth Hostel. The hostel was full of Challengers, British, American and Italian. The hostel had magnetic strip pass keys for the doors including the dormitories. I forgot this when going for a pee in the night and had to knock up my American room mate to get back in. I hope he was awake anyway. I never have this much trouble camping.
All the following maps have our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text. The red squares are Munros.
Day 1
Friday 8th May – Oban to Cruachan Reservoir
Daily Distance 34.1k, Time by Naismith 10.05, Daily Ascent 1570m, Daily Average Altitude 76m
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text. The red squares are Munros.
We had breakfast and left the hostel. We passed Bob and Rose Cartwright interviewing people for a podcast.
Later they caught us up and there were 7 of us finding our way through Oban; Bob, Rose and their daughter and Mick Blackburn and Gayle Faulkner. Just outside Oban 1 the Cartwrights took a turn left leaving Mick and Gail to walk with us all the way to the Smokery beyond Taynault. It is a tarmac road all the way and could have been a bit of a plod, but with lively conversation about walks and walking, walking food and a bit of gear talk, the time passed quickly and we arrived in Taynault 2 for some tea ahead of schedule. It was raining as we left the pub for the Smokery and still windy. We left Mick and Gail at the smokery, 3 they were the last Challengers we met until Montrose!
As we arrived there was a vicious hailstorm. Luckily we had read the TGO article by Roger Smith suggesting that challengers used local businesses for food. He used the smokery as his example. We had planned to buy smoked Salmon. While the hail built up in the gutters we bought a pack of smoked Salmon trimmings and were persuaded to a bowl of soup each.
We had intended to attempt to climb Ben Cruachan almost directly from the smokery 4 if the weather was good. This would have got us up high more quickly and helped our average height. However the weather was decidedly not good. A high level camp without shelter might have been a problem so we changed plan and decided to camp at the Cruachan reservoir. It is quite high but looked as if shelter would be available. This added some miles on our day and included a horrible road walk along the Pass of Brander. We ate the first smoked salmon with ryvita under the wall of the reservoir dam 5. We camped in a sheltered spot half way along the side of the reservoir.
Day 2
Cruchan reservoir to Lairig Dhoireann
Daily Distance 22.2 k, Time Naismith 11.15, Daily Ascent 3058m, Daily Average Altitude 764m
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text. The red squares are Munros.
We started about 7 am. Our first aim was the Bealach between Meall Cuanail and Ben Cruachan. We might have camped there if the weather had been good. 1 Halfway up the rain turned to snow. By the bealach the snow was lying deep. We got out our ice axes and half wished we had brought our crampons. The terrain got rocky and steeper, but we got to the summit of Ben Cruachan without further event.
Next our route took us East along the ridge to Stob Diamh. Almost immediately the ridge descends over sloping slabs of rock 2. We did not like the look of crossing them in the wet snowy conditions. For a while we considered descending, but by retreating a little back along the ridge we found a way down the least precipitous side of the ridge to below the slabs, and were able to work our way round back to the ridge. With the snow and low cloud covering any path we mistakenly continued along the ridge onto Drochaid Ghias 3 until the difficulty made us think again.
We retreated 50 yards and found an easier slope down, to a lower ridge to Stob Diamh. After our second Munro of the day we next descended to Lairig Noe, still in snow. With snow still falling we ate our lunch before climbing to Bienn Chochuill. At this point 4 the difficulties eased and the snow stopped falling. We were on a high ridge, level and easy walking still in deep snow, but no problem. With exhilaration we were heading for our fourth Munro. We descended to a bealach, the snow cleared and so did the cloud. We could see Glen Kinglass and the rest of our intended route. We put away our ice axes and started up to Bienn Eunaich. At the summit cairn we took a bearing to ensure we descended the right way. A wind picked up and we were getting cold. Then we discovered that a snow cornice blocked our route 5.
We could not see a way round it. At this point the best plan would have been to descend back out of the snow to the previous bealach and descended from there to Glen Kinglass. Unfortunately we did not think of that. We followed the obvious path hoping to work our way round to our intended route. We quickly ended up on the wrong side of a deep Corrie, which would take us off the wrong side of the mountain. I found a less steep way down into this corrie. 6 Animal tracks showed it was the best available. I thought we could glissade down safely, although it was steep, because it was smooth snow with a gentle run out. Ellie does not like glissading and we spent some time walking up and down trying to find a better alternative. In the end we decided to go for it. I glissaded down ice axe in hand and enjoyed it. Ellie, with less control, did not, but the soft run out allowed for errors. We were now in Coire na Garbhlaich on the wrong side of the Lairig Dhoireann pass from Glen Kinglass. We were at about the height of the pass so we tried to stay high, thankfully below the snow, and contour round to the pass. We were nearly there when a deep side valley stopped us 7. At that point we descended and found a good place to camp. It was 9.00 pm. In May it is still light so we could cook and get some sleep.
When I unpacked my waterproof rucksack liner we found it was no longer waterproof; the rain and snow had made my spare clothes and the sleeping bag damp. We were camping at 600metres. Our fall back with problems like this is an impromptu hot water bottle made of our 1 litre platypus, a pair of mitts and our foam cooking cozy all in a dry bag in case of leaks. We needed it. We were behind schedule as our intended camp was in Glen Kinglass, so we hoped to get up early again.
We saw no-one that day.
Day 3
Lairig Dhoireann to Bealach north west of Stob Coire an Albannaich
Daily Distance 20.2k, Time Naismith 8.28, Daily Ascent 2075m, Daily Average Altitude 579m
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text. The red squares are Munros.
We set off at 7 am having had less sleep than we liked, but we were not cold. For a pass marked as a footpath on our map the route was very scanty and steep both up and down. 1 When we were in the valley Allt Dhoirrean the side valleys caused slow progress. We stopped in a lovely dingle just before the valley opened up into Glen Kinglass and had a well earned snack. We did not reach the bridge across Glen Kinglass 2 until 11am, so we were about 4 hours behind schedule because of the bad choice at the Summit of Bienn Eunaich.
We went up Glen Kinglass a kilometre and then set off up Allt Hallater. 3 We stopped for lunch at a sunny period and spread our sleeping bag over a rock to dry. Our original plan was to climb Bienn nan Aighenan and perhaps detour to Take in Ben Starav. We were behind so we did not do either but climbed to the bealach north of Ben nan Aighenan then to 4 the bealach East of Ben Starav, then, despite Ben Starav looking lovely with snow on it we turned East towards Glas Bienn Mor. At this point we were walking with 4 Munro Baggers with day packs. They had heard of the TGO challenge but thought that “they walked from pub to pub across Scotland”.
We were crossing snow fields on East facing slopes but the west and summits were clear. We sometimes used our axes. The baggers turned off 5 and we started the steep climb to Stob Coire an Albannaich. After the initial climb this mountain has a lovely snow covered reasonably flat large top. The sky was clear the wind was low it was beautiful. After the summit we looked at our descent. We needed to descend the ridge on a snow field to loose height and then drop off the ridge to the bealach below. We had caught up a lot by missing Ben Starav but we were still a bit behind. Rather than be forced to camp higher we decided to camp at this bealach 754m (2473ft).
With axes out again we easily descended the ridge. 6 We looked over the edge to see how to get down to the bealach. To our left was a lovely smooth snow gulley that I wanted to glissade down, but it ended in a jumble of rocks. If you could not be sure to stop it was not safe. Below us was a mixture of slippy rock slabs and snow between, some bits easy and some bits difficult. We had to get down that, it was a mixture of small glissades and scrambles, it took some time but we were down to a good campsite early enough to cook, make another hot water bottle, and catch up on sleep. There was enough shelter at this bealach to give confidence if the wind rose. It did not; we had a quiet night.
Day 4
Bealach north west of Stob Coire an Albannaich to camp near Kings house Hotel
Daily Distance 28.2k, Time Naismith 10.55, Daily Ascent 2250m, Daily Average Altitude 822m
Day Four – Bealach north west of Stob Coire an Albannaich to camp near Kings house Hotel
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text. The red squares are Munros.
We were up early and climbing Meall Tarsuinn on our way to Meall nan Eun before the sun rose over the summit. From the summit of Meall nan Eun there was a tricky scramble down to a bealach 1 before a scramble up Meall Odhar, both luckily nearly snow free. Looking back we were pleased with the line we had taken, there did not seem to be anything easier. Now we had a long high ridge walk all the way to Stob Ghabhar, the sun was out, there was a covering of dry snow , this was what we came for.
Just short of Stob Ghabhar 2 we left our rucksacks, spread our sleeping bag over snow free rocks, weighted it with rocks and climbed to the summit without packs. Here we finally got a phone signal to challenge control. We returned and had lunch with more smoked salmon. The bag was now dry again, we had rearranged packing to free plastic bags that stopped the sleeping bag getting wet again. Now our route took us along another beautiful ridge Aonach Mor 3 you can see our route on the map it was all great but the last bit, getting down to the Kings House hotel through all the ski damage 4 reminded us how tired we were. We did not see any other walkers until near Kingshouse, although there were footprints in the snow.
We had a good meal and some beer at the Kings House and camped on the other side of the river. Next day was a short day but we were already back on schedule.
Day 5
Kings house to valley camp SSE of Am Bodach (Mamores)
Daily Distance 17.7k, Time Naismith 5.53, Daily Ascent 1105m, Daily Average Altitude 274m
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text. The red squares are Munros.
We had a lie in and did not start walking until 8 am. Our route today was relatively easy, all part of the West Highland Way, to Kinlochleven. Plenty of walkers down here. In fact I have heard this part, The Devil’s Staircase, 1 described as the hardest part of the WHW. We got to Kinlochleven by lunch time and had a meal at the ice factory, which we were not impressed by – the meal that is, the artificial ice wall was impressive.
Then we shopped for the next stage to Dalwhinnie. Our rucksacks got heavy again! Mid afternoon we were walking again. We wanted to gain some height before we camped as we had a long day in the Mamores. We camped at 400m in the valley leading to Sugurr an Lubhair.
Day 6
Camp SSE of Am Bodach (Mamores) to Upper Glen Nevis
Daily Distance 16.7k, Time Naismith 7.47, Daily Ascent 1982m, Daily Average Altitude 799m
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text. The red squares are Munros.
Early up again we were climbing in shadow up to the Mamores ridge aiming at Am Bodach. As we crested the ridge 1 we discovered that today was another windy day, at least up here. We find high wind more of a problem than anything else especially on narrow ridges. Any thoughts of detouring to An Gearanach were deleted. We climbed the easy climb up the ridge to Am Bodach and descended the more tricky, in wind, descent 2 amongst crags to the next Bealach, then up Stob Coire a Chairn. The route to An Gearanach looked impressive and daunting, perhaps OK for us on a still day.
Onward to Na Gruagnichean; we were making good time when the wind allowed. The scramble down to the bealach before Na gruagnichean was difficult and the rock friable. The scramble up over a partially snow covered rock field 3 with frozen patches was slow too. We then met 2 of the 3 people we met that day, although I later saw a party on a distant summit.
The wind at this point was severely strong, buffeting us. The path was partially snow covered and very narrow with a steep drop into a corrie on the left and a scree slope on the right. Discretion being the better part of valour, we walked 3 foot down on the scree holding on to the edge of the path with our hands while the wind tried to throw us over the path into steep drop. 4 By this method we got to the top of a subsidiary summit at 1062m. 5 We could now see the route to Binnein Mor. There were some snow fields at what looked like steep slopes to cross and the wind was still strong. Then I saw another walker descending. It was clear that he could avoid the snow and stay on rocks that were out of sight to us. We decided our fifth munro was so close we would do it.
We met the walker and his 2 dogs halfway; he was as worried about the wind as we were. We got to the summit by way of further buffeting. Binnein Mor is a complex impressive mountain with at least 4 spurs. Our planned route continued along a short narrow ridge to the northern top and down the steep rocky north east spur. We decided that it was too exposed in this wind and started to descend the East spur from the main summit. The way down was wide and easy at first but soon began to be precipitous. 6 We decided to leave the spur and descended south on a wide grassy ledge. When we reached a stream we followed that down to the good path east of Binnein Mor. It was a long detour. We descended into upper Glen Nevis looking for a sheltered camp ready to climb the Grey Corries the next day. We found a flat terrace beside a stream with a protective earth bank just as high as our tent. Although the wind was strong blowing down Glen Nevis, out of the wind in the evening sun it was warm, we cooked and ate beside our tent, and dried our socks, a couple of hours of quality rest before the sun set and it got cold. Then we got in our warm tent and read by our head torches.
It was a stressful day and Ellie did not stop and try to protect her feet when she started to get blisters. By the camp they needed Compeed and with the continued long days they never got better. Ellie was changing plasters and surviving on rotating Ibruprofen and Paracetamol the rest of the way to Montrose. I am a bit of a pain wimp and would probably have given up.
Day 7
Glen Nevis to Fersit
Daily Distance 25.7k, Time Naismith 9.02, Daily Ascent 1732m, Daily Average Altitude 492m
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text. The red squares are Munros.
We had a quiet night but as soon as we got out of the tent and got above the sheltering bank it was clear that the wind had not died down. The Grey Corries seemed unlikely. Still we struck camp and climbed straight up the hill to the bealach 1 between Sgur Choinich Mor and its little brother. When we reached the bealach the wind became even more impressive. We struggled to the summit of Sgur Choinich Mor 2 and looked along the narrow ridge joining it to its rockier neighbours, then descended towards the River Rath to take our Foul Weather Alternative. Now for the first time on this trip we came across boggy riverside meadows and rivers too deep to cross with dry feet.
We forded the Rath 3 without socks, dried our feet on our little towel and put on our socks and goretex socks again. It was so boggy by the Rath that we left the path and cut a corner to hit the path to the Lairig Leacach higher up the hill. The path was good, when we found it, and we followed it to the bothy 4. At that point we met our primary route again, but it was still very windy. We had planned on climbing Stob Coire Easain and the ridge to Stob a Choire Mheadhion but instead we continued on our FWA down Coire Laire. It was so windy that the rocky cone of Sgurr Innse 5 was whistling.
We found a sunny sheltered spot, had a rest and listened to the mountain. We followed a disused tramway to Fersit, where we found a bin to discard our rubbish. We camped in the shelter of a little woodland south of Fersit. We met 2 people at the bothy that day.
Day 8
Fersit to head of the pass in An Lairig
Daily Distance 26.5k, Time Naismith 9.58, Daily Ascent 2164m, Daily Average Altitude 712m
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text. The red squares are Munros.
In the morning It was still windy but perhaps not so bad, the cloud was above the summits. The next high ridge looked wide and easier so we set off up Stob Coire Sgriodain. The wind was just low enough to not be too much bother even on the 1 craggy scramble to the summit. Now we had another high beautiful ridge walk 2 to Chno Dearg. The food we had bought in Kilochleven was running down; I seemed to be one meal short of what I needed but I had spare Smash. At the last camp I had made up the spare smash with bits of cheese, olive oil and fish and I now had it cold for a snack. It was not my preferred meal but it filled the gap.
From the summit of Chno Dearg there were lovely views of our next ridge, the 4 Munros beside Ben Alder. Then we were descending, at first glissading over snow fields 3 then following streams down to Strath Ossian.
We had lunch in the shelter of a small wood 4 beside Strathossian House, then aimed for the footbridge over the river Ossian. We turned north along the track until we had cleared the crags of Creagnan nan Nead then struck up into a high corrie 5 that took us to the main path along the ridge. The clouds had now closed in and the wind had strengthened again. We climbed between 2 little lochans and up a spur towards the first Munro through rock fields and snow. On the top of the corrie wall by the summit 6 the wind became too strong. MWIS was predicting 60 mph and after one Munro we decided we had to descend. Our FWA was south of the ridge but the lee slope was tempting, so we decided to retreat north to the valley of the Allt Cam. The weather was now foul. The winds were still strong and it was cold and raining. We climbed up beside Allt Cam towards the pass round Lochan Dubh, the black lochan. 7 It deserves the name because it is surrounded by peat and in the dreicht conditions it was pretty miserable. We needed somewhere to camp with shelter from the strong wind, without standing water. The only place we could find was where a stream disappeared into the peat. We pitched over the stream. With the tent up, when you lay down you could hear the rushing stream in the basement. We were pretty wet but at least this time our sleeping bag was dry.
Day 9
An Lairig to Dalwhinnie
Daily Distance 26.7k, Time Naismith 7.48, Daily Ascent 1063m, Daily Average Altitude 603m
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text. The red squares are Munros.
It was a very windy night but the tent came through with flying colours. In the morning the weather was still raining, but improving, and we had not collapsed into the stream.
As we continued over the pass 1 the path got better. Streams began to have bridges over them – ahh civilization It stopped raining and we picked up speed on the gentle downhill with light rucksacks. We got to Loch Pattack where we met people again. One more ridge before Dalwhinnie, The Fara, this has no Munros on it, highest point is 911 metres.
We went north on a track then up the side of the hill round a plantation 2 up the ridge and on at a high level for a long way, unfortunately often in cloud, but nonetheless wonderful walking. The summit cairn 3 is enormous, as if they were trying to make it a Munro.
In the cloud We could not descend directly to Dalwhinnie because the plantation got in the way again. We were booked in at the Inn at Dalwhinnie and we got there about 3 in the afternoon. The receptionist claimed they had had 100 challengers book in; the first had arrived on Tuesday. We were the last to pick up a parcel. We had spent so long climbing ridges in the West that we were four days behind some. We knew that it was 6 days to Montrose from here and that did not leave a lot of spare time. The baths and clothes washing began, and by evening we were ready for the big meal of venison with Guinness and apple pie and custard, followed by a double single malt from the distillery down the road.
And so to bed.
Day 10
Dalwhinnie to stream site 1.5 kilometers East of the Minigaig summit
Daily Distance 27.7k, Time Naismith 8.50, Daily Ascent 1590m, Daily Average Altitude 710m
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text. The red squares are Munros.
A lovely day with less wind, we crossed under the A9 beside a stream and set off up Carn na Caim. The ground was wet until we started climbing the spur then the ground dried up 1 and there seemed to be hares everywhere running off and then sitting on the skyline. We climbed the spur and turned East to the summit.
Our plan was to walk high on the watershed to near Meall Odhar Mor then contour to the spur overlooking Gaick Lodge descend steeply on the path across the low ground around the Lodge and straight up the other side. From our view point 2 this path seemed riven with peat hags. The valley of Allt Coire an Dubh Chadha looked much easier walking and it looked as if we might be able to get down to the low ground by following the stream. So a change of plan. We crossed a few hags and got into the valley. For a long way it was lovely walking, even a bit of a path, at one point 3 a lot of the path climbed out of the valley but we carried on. We began to have to cross the stream regularly to avoid crags and the stream started to descend more rapidly. It became obvious that we were going to end up at the top of a waterfall, 4 so we took an opportunity to contour to the right on very steep grass on a deer track to get out of trouble.
The deer herd were just round the next spur, they must have 2 legs shorter than the others to graze there. When we had cleared the waterfall we descended down the steep grassy slope and finally came out at the bottom of the stream where it opened up into the main valley. The main valley is superb it looks as if it was cut with a giant V chisel. We crossed the main river by a footbridge and followed a track past Loch Bhrodainn , then we struck uphill steeply 5 to a balcony path we had seen from below. When we got to the path it took us south, then round a buttress into an Easterly valley. Somewhere up the valley the path disappeared and we had to climb steeply up to the crest of the plateau.
The plateau is deeply dissected by the valley of the Allt Domhainn, we decided it was worth walking almost round the head of the valley 6 to avoid going up and down significantly. The weather was sunny and warm and it was mostly not wet underfoot. We were now back on our planned route and we intended to generally follow the watershed East the rest of today and tomorrow. I thought I saw a small green tent pitched ahead but when we got there it was only a large pile of grouse pellets in green plastic sacks. My thirst to say hello to a fellow camper had got me hallucinating. I felt we had been going as well as could be expected in this pathless peaty terrain. Now we descended to a landmark! 7 the summit of the Minigaig path.
When we got to it the path seemed worse than what we had been crossing. It was a trampled peaty bog. We preferred to ignore it and climb straight up the other side. The terrain never got as good as it had been however. East we were faced with descending again into peat hags;8 I preferred to try and walk round to the north. Ellie complained but followed me. We passed south of Leathad an Taobhain and another summit of 912metres. It had been time to find a camp site for some time but there had not been anything suitable. Now we descended East into a valley and there was a relatively idyllic campsite. The first headwater of the River Feshie running slowly in a steep sided crosswind valley with a choice of flat grassy pitches. We made camp. After Dalwhinnie we met nobody.
Day 11
Stream site 1.5 kilometers East of the Minigaig summit to site ENE Geal Charn
Daily Distance 29.3k, Time Naismith 9.15, Daily Ascent 1513m, Daily Average Altitude 790m
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text. The red squares are Munros.
We awoke to mist. The clear skies of yesterday were gone, today we would be walking on bearings. I hoped it did not slow us down too much. We set off up our valley South to regain the watershed,then East. Somewhere here 1 we dropped down out of the cloud and caught a glimpse northward to the Feshie valley. Then the clouds closed in again. We changed direction to East North East.
All this time since the camp we had been walking high at about 800metres, no path, all rounded peaty landforms, I don’t remember much about it. Suddenly we came upon a path! 2 We were in Munro territory again. Ahead was Carn an Rhidhleir at 934metres and a seemingly 4 lane path up and down to An Sgarsoch 1006 metres. One North Easterly face on this route was high enough to have a snow field to traverse,3 the first snow for 3 days.
As quickly as it arrived the path turned off and we were walking the watershed with only a little more path than before. It was afternoon now and the clouds had lifted. After six kilometres of more high walking we could look down on Loch Tilt. We could see a reasonable way down but in the lowest bit the river lost its way 4 in an area of pools and deep water and very wet peat bog that took us a long time and some backtracking to navigate. Finally we got to the main North/ South Tilt path followed it beside the river for half a kilometre and turned East by ourselves again.
We tried to follow the river East but the valley became too enclosed and we struck up hill onto a sort of tilted plateau which with much peat hags slowly led us higher and higher to Geal Charn. By now we were really tired and wanted to camp but it was high and windy. We descended away from the wind North into the head of a valley and by losing 150 metres found a sheltered pitch with water but at a bit of a slope. It would have to do.
Day 12
Site ENE Geal Charn to Spittal of Glenshee
Daily Distance 27.8k, Time Naismith 9.54, Daily Ascent 1859m, Daily Average Altitude 788m
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text. The red squares are Munros.
In the morning it was bright and sunny we set off to the next summit unnamed at 920m 1. There we left our rucksacks went to the Munro Carn Bhac then returned to our rucksacks. Next we descended and began the climb of Beinn Lutharn Mhor. We first climbed to a corrie 2 then up the left wall avoiding scree to the ridge and walked round to the Munro. We descended south to a bealach then contoured along Mam nan Carn 3 to the pass 4 south of the Munro Carn an Righ. It was raining again, windy and the clouds came down. Nonetheless we left one of our rucksacks and took the smaller up Carn an Righ.
During this climb we saw and met 9 walkers in 4 parties. It was very cold at the top and I did not envy the shorts on some. I was putting on 3 pairs of gloves! We descended back to our rucksack and found somewhere out of the wind for lunch. 5 Most paths are made by day walks and Munro baggers, we had to keep finding our own pathless way between the well used paths. We followed a stream steeply down south East crossed a valley 6, climbed Glas Tulaichean, and followed a track down a long descending ridge towards Spittal of Glenshee. With nearly all our food eaten this was very easy walking.
At the end of the ridge 7 we sat in the sun, eat our last snack and looked at our last high view before our descent to lowland. We then descended steeply into Gleann Taitneach at a footbridge. On the way down we saw the largest herd of deer I have seen. 8 I counted 90 and I am sure I missed some. From the footbridge we just had to follow the track to Spittal of Glenshee where we were booked in at Gulabin Lodge with a food parcel and spare gas canister waiting. Clothes washing, showers and off for a meal at the multi cultural fake-Scottish Spittal of Glenshee Restaurant.
I don’t think I have seen waiters from Equador, China and Pakistan all wearing tartan with a Scottish Piper playing in the background. Still they were friendly and the portions were large. We returned to Gulabin Lodge where we organized to leave before the usual breakfast time by making our own from copious supplies left out for us.
I was still concerned about completing from Spittal to Montrose in 3 days.
Day 13
Spittal of Glenshee to Dog Hillock
Daily Distance 32.0k, Time Naismith 10.1, Daily Ascent 1789m, Daily Average Altitude 846m
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text. The red squares are Munros.
We set off at 7 and found one of Gulabin lodge’s ducks trapped in chicken wire where it had tried a “Great Escape”, we returned to tell them and set off again. The area we were heading into south of Lochnagar is rich in Munros, and we hoped to do a record (for us) – 7 Munros in a day.
It was a long climb up a ridge 1 to the first Munro, Creag Leacach, which was rocky on its summit and slow, then the complete contrast of rounded grassy Glas Maol. Now we were high: Carn of Claise, where much of the rockfields could be bypassed, Tom Buidhe and Tolmount passed if not in rapid succession, then at least relatively easily. You know you are walking in the top half of the Highlands when you descend to the summit of Jock’s Road 2 and set off up the other side.
We then walked round the head of the Glen Doll watershed 3 and took in the last 2 Munros, Cairn Bannock and Broad Cairn by late afternoon. This was all lovely walking on what turned into a lovely day. We saw more walkers here than we can remember.
We could not rest however as we had a long way to go, even if no more Munros. We descended East off Broad Cairn joined a track and left it to climb Sandy Hillock. After Sandy Hillock the terrain changed back to many peat hags, but we found an economical way along the top of the cliffs above Glen Doll over Broom Hill to a camp site on the lee side of Dog Hillock.
Day 14
Dog Hillock to beside Spring in Valley East of Berry Cairn
Daily Distance 34.8k, Time Naismith 9.52, Daily Ascent 1222m, Daily Average Altitude 692m
Day Fourteen – Dog Hillock to beside Spring in Valley East of Berry Cairn
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text.
In the morning we set off over Gallow Hillock and 1 Ferrowie then Lair of Aldararie. This was slow pathless peat and we did not take the best path, Somewhere I think it was from here to Lair of Whitestone there was a lot of Mica in the rock.2 It had been washed out by the streams to leave shiny silver banks and where the brown peaty water ran over it, the water seemed to magnify it and it looked like gold. After Lair of Whitestone we crossed Boustie Ley, followed the cliffs above Loch Brandy and met the path from the Clova Hotel.3
We followed this over Green Hill and left over good ground to cross between White Hill and the Goet. At this point we came across our first Electric fence under construction 4. Happily with a gap to suit our path. The fence seems to follow the watershed so it did not get in our way too much as we were generally parallel to it. We crossed Black Shank and Cairn Trench and then, as I remember, the worst peaty bog 5 since Loch Tilt in the bealach on the way to White Hill (number 2). From White Hill 6 there was view of continuous hags if you followed the watershed over Potty Lednar to Dog Hillock (number 2). I remember thinking that if it was all like this we would not get to Montrose anytime tomorrow. With a bit of study it looked, and was, easier to cut down to a green stripe alongside a stream follow it down to a south facing tributary and follow that up around Potty Leadnar towards Dog Hillock and climb out of the valley at the end, up Dog Hillock. By that way we probably saved a lot of grief.
At the top of Dog Hillock 7 there was another gate in an electric fence and on the other side a track. There were now tracks intermittently all the way to Berry Cairn. Barring mishaps we had an achievable day to Montrose tomorrow. Just before Berry Cairn we descended North into a steep valley until we found water and camped beside a spring in a last little idyllic wild nook in the tamed hills on the edge of the Eastern Agricultural plains.
Day 15
Valley East of Berry Cairn to Montrose
Daily Distance 28.6k, Time Naismith 6.48, Daily Ascent 399m, Daily Average Altitude 94m
The map shows our actual route in Blue, and the intended route where it was different in red. The blue numbers on our route are highlighted in the text.
In the morning we climbed Berry Cairn and descended to a track where we passed our first house 1. The occupants, walking their dog, were the first people we had seen since the summit of Tolmount 2 days before. They guessed we were Challengers and walked down with us towards Burn Foot.
From there we followed the road between The Caterthun hills, our last climb, and road walked to Brechin, stopped in a café 2, filled up at a bakery, and set off along the main road to Montrose. This mostly has no pavement 3 so was bit wearing, but we did it at speed, to get it over with.
By Montrose I had my first blister, nothing like Ellie had been suffering. We walked down to the beach and then signed off at the Park Hotel at about 3.30 in the afternoon. “There only 7 challengers still to finish” we were told. We camped at the campsite and talked gear, attended the meal and, following drinks at the Park, swapped bits of this story for others’ tales.
Epilogue
Ellie’s feet were so painful for most of this Challenge that to keep enjoying long distance walking she went to a specialist shop in Oldham to have her gait analysed and see if there were better shoes. It did not seem as if there were better shoes, so, interpreting their advice, we have remodelled the Inov8 Flyroc shoes she wears to tighten the heel cup with an added lace and cut away the stiff part of the shoe that was causing the other blister.
We have since completed 3 weeks of the Pyrenean Haute Route without using compeed or painkillers, so success!
We get to almost lightweight backpacking without we think being Spartan, by sharing camp gear. The next page shows “our packing list”.
Notes on our gear & gear list
Tent Terra Nova Laser
This is just big enough for 2. It must be the lightest 2 person double wall tent. We have added 4 extra guys to the available points and we are now confident in it in strong winds, although we still try to find shelter for a quieter night. We have added elastic to pull out the sag in the inner by our heads. We draw back the groundsheet to an extra loop on the tension band, to give more safety room for cooking. The tent does not stand well under snow; you must get out and remove the snow.
Rab 400 Sleeping bag converted to a double top bag
We have taken the rab 400 bag and added a zip across the footbox so the bag opens completely. Rab sent us a matching zip and some pertex quantum and we have zipped in a basesheet about 2/3 the width of the opened up bag. This makes a double top bag for 150 grams more weight than the 900 gram original bag. The base sheet has a down panel to complete the “sole” of the footbox. The down fits under our bodies by about 100mm all down the sides. Ellie being taller gets the “hood” side of the bag. Because there is no longer a mummy hood we need good hats to sleep in.
Neoair short mats
This was the first long trip with these mats they are very light but camping high in May we thought we needed the insulation boost of a 3mm double foam mat. We may manage without another time. We use our empty rucksacks and foam sitmats to insulate under our feet. We use spare clothes and 30 gram double chamber air pillows under our heads.
Clothes
I avoid fleeces and use synthetic fill or down for warmth, because you get more warmth for the weight. I use Merino for base layers for its lesser smell. I always go for the thinnest as Merino is relatively heavy. Power stretch tights are durable and quite warm for their weight. In winter we use Furtech waterproofs. In May, even high, I decided it was just too warm, so it was back to event and goretex.
Footwear
We wear inov8 running shoes with goretex socks. A very light relatively dry system.
Jetboil
We have cut down our jetboil until it only weighs 300 gram and has a pot volume of 800ml. We often have to cook dehydrated meals one at a time but that is still quicker than our alcohol stove.
Rucksacks
We are keen on Aarn front pockets. Research shows being more upright uses less energy, more than is lost by the pack being a little heavier. The access to stuff on the move is valuable. To keep our pace similar, and to make Ellie more agile for scrambling, Ellie carries less weight. We have added 12 litre Aarn front pockets to an OMM 32 litre mountain marathon classic. This makes a smaller sack for her that weighs about 1 kilogram.
Food
Our muesli, our dehydrated evening meals and our homemade flapjack are all laced with olive oil. This pushes up the calories we carry with minimum weight. We try not to carry any food that has less than 4 calories per gram. We carry about 3200 calories at a weight of about 700 gram per person per day.
Ice Axes
Our ice axes weigh about 135 grams each. That is hardly any weight, as they work to dig toilet holes saving the weight of a trowel, and are strong enough to lever the odd stone out of that nearly perfect camp site. They are made of a Carbon Fibre handle and titanium head and spike. They are not graded but they are strong enough for support and self arrest. They have not been tested for things like a belay for crevasse rescue. They are too light to be quick at cutting steps. They are fine for winter walking. They are made in Canada. They are part of a batch of 30. They are not in production.