The Three Generation Challenge 1999
In May 1999 Derek Emsley set out to walk across Scotland with his son and grandson – three generations sharing the experience of the TGO Challenge. This is Derek’s account of that first ‘three generation’ crossing
Scroll down or follow the links below
Introduction
How the ‘Three Generation’ crossing began
I first began to look at the possibilities of a three generation crossing in 1996 when I spent some time with my eldest grandson both in the Brecon Beacons and around Newtonmore. One thing I was sure of was that Nigel, who would be 18 and eligible in 1999, had all the physical powers necessary for a crossing. However it was my opinion that for an 18 year old some form of stimulus might be needed in the form of an occasional chicken and chips, and game of pool, to ease the tension on some evenings.
I was already planning a crossing with Kevin one of my sons in 1998. It was his twin brother Richard, father of Nigel who would be making the 1999 three generation crossing. So I planned to solo, as most of my crossings were, in 1997 and test out a route that would not only be interesting to Richard and Nigel but would also contain enough vital ingredients for Nigel to have a little respite on some evenings.
The route I chose was from Oban to St Cyrus via Glen Kinglass, Forest of Rannoch, Blair Atholl, Braemar, Ballater, Mount Keen and on to St Cyrus. By following this route it was possible for social evenings to be had at Bridge of Awe,Tummel Bridge, Blair Atholl, Braemar, Ballater, and finally at North Water Bridge – as it turned out, on the night of the European Cup Final.
I was aware that the Matheson family, old Iain being a good friend of mine, were going to make an attempt for a three generation crossing in 1998. We decided that whether they succeeded or not we would still carry out our plan. After all a three generation crossing was always going to be an achievement. With Kevin in 1998 we were at the Lodge Hotel, Newtonmore when Iain senior had to withdraw due to a knee problem. It gave me no satisfaction that my old friend had dropped out and we shared a dram or three that evening and Iain wished me luck for 1999.
So in November 1998 we got the good news from Roger that our application had been accepted for 1999 and we could start our planning.
The three of us met at Oban on the 13th May, Richard and Nigel by air and rail and yours truly by car as Marian was to go on to Newtonmore for 10 days, only bringing us supplies at Blair Atholl and Braemar.
Day 1
Friday 14th May – Oban to Bridge of Awe
We signed out soon after 9 o’clock and proceeded by the usual route through Oban, up the hill knowing full well that it was to be a day of road walking all the way. The weather was kind to us as we walked through Glen Lonan and I suppose most would agree that, but for the tarmac, the scenery is very nice. We reached our planned first stop at the Bridge of Awe campsite and Nigel, the one with a huge appetite, could devour a plate of chicken and chips, although I think Richard and I did pretty well also.
Day 2
Saturday 15th May – Bridge of Awe to Glen Kinglass
Leaving the campsite it was only a short walk before we reached Loch Etive and the undulating land rover track we were to follow to Glen Kinglass. The day was warm and the scenery first class. At lunch by the shelter used by those destined to collect the dead deer it was boots off to get some air to sweaty feet. As the afternoon progressed it became very warm, and Nigel started to bound ahead of his father and grandfather. He had been told where we intended to camp that night and he went on, dropped his own pack and returned to us to see whether we required any assistance. However we were all pretty fit and arrived at the spot I had chosen for the night stop.
When I camped here in 1997 I had met Bill Robertson and his wife who were looking for a pitch for the night. I suggested to them they may have to go some way before they found anything as good as this. They decided to push on and the next morning I caught up with them over the watershed where they had camped in a not very pleasant spot. They conceded that I was right and they should have camped somewhere near my tent. I tell this story only to explain that on the evening of Day 2 we found a message under a stone which read “This area is reserved for Derek Emsley’s party. Good luck Derek. Bill Robertson.”! Bill had got to this spot by another route but knowing that was my stopping point had left this message.
This was the first night we realised what a huge appetite Nigel had and while Richard and I were satisfied with one pasta meal each, Nigel cooked himself a second one!
Day 3
Day 3 Sunday 16th May – Glen Kinglass to Gorton Bothy
From the campsite it is always a wild looking landscape up to the watershed.
Having crossed the watershed it was a very pleasant walk down to Victoria Bridge for a brew. From the bridge we were taking the track on the north side of Loch Tulla to cross the A82. We had to go a little way south on the road to pick up the track at Achallader to take us to Gorton Bothy where we intended to stay the night.
It was a hot and tiring walk to reach the bothy by late afternoon. We did see the bothy maintenance man who had brought up some coal so we lit a small fire to make things cosy for the evening. So ended a pleasant day with us the only occupants of the bothy that night.
Day 4
Monday 17th May – Gorton Bothy to Loch Rannoch
This is the morning I agreed to give way to the younger ones who thought they knew best. The debate was about whether we should follow the river to the railway bridge, as I had done in 1997, or should I give way and do what they wanted which was to cross the river by the bridge across from the bothy and pick up the railway line much earlier than we would have done my way. At 2 votes to 1 I lost the debate and over the bridge we went. As we climbed towards the line I went into a pool of very wet peat up to my knees, much to their amusement. It took both of them to pull me out but there was no chance of them taking a photo to giggle about in future years as the camera was in a pouch round my waist – and by then it was beneath my body. The annoying thing was I had put on a fresh pair of clean, soft socks before leaving the bothy and in half an hour all that comfort had been lost!
We continued along the railway line until we were clear of the bridge over the ford and dropped down to the forest road. The walk from there to Bridge of Gaur was without incident and we made good time to allow us to walk towards Kinloch Rannoch and pitch on the Forestry Commission’s basic campsite that evening.
Day 5
Tuesday 18th May – Loch Rannoch to Tummel Bridge
It was a somewhat uneventful day. The weather was again great, but it was roadwork all the way to the holiday complex at Tummel Bridge. In 1999 it was still possible to get a pitch on narrow strips of grass between hard standings for caravans used during the busy months and it appeared May was not one of those. So it was good showers, good food, and some games of pool that evening.
Day 6
Wednesday 19th May – Tummel Bridge to Blair Atholl
This was to be another fairly long day as we intended to make Blair Atholl that evening. Grandfather decided he would set off in front to allow the younger ones to walk at their pace when they were ready and we would meet at the Loch Tummel Hotel before starting the walk over the hills. Again it was a wonderful day and we were blessed with fine views of Schiehallion with Loch Tummel in the foreground.
We reached Blair Atholl during the afternoon and were pleased to see Marian with more supplies as our rations of pasta meals were getting sorely depleted in order to keep Nigel nourished! The Blair Atholl campsite was its usual sociable place with a number of Challengers already there. We all had a slap up meal at the Tilt Hotel and prepared for what was going to be the long next day. We had been listening to the weather forecast and although we were going to have a nice summer day to go through Glen Tilt, the following day, Friday, was being forecast as pretty bad. Grandfather decided that we should push on to get over the Geldie Burn before camping.
Day 7
Blair Atholl to Geldie Burn
As promised Thursday morning was a superb day to walk through Glen Tilt, sunny and warm and it was difficult to imagine that the weather was to change so dramatically.
Having stopped for a brew we did not really want to set off again, but common sense told us it would be far easier on Friday if we got over the Geldie Burn before the rain started.
Having crossed the burn with dry feet, thanks in no small part to the excellent Dry Walkers, we took the first opportunity to camp for the night. By then there were signs of the bad weather and it was not long before the rain and wind started.
Day 8
Friday 21st May – Geldie Burn to Braemar
Friday morning started wet and miserable, although at that time we were still in high spirits. We were going to be a day early at Braemar, and due to the weather that was going to cost Grandfather a few more pounds than planned.
Before we reached Braemar it was apparent that we were not going to camp at the campsite. By the time we reached the Fife Arms the rain was turning to sleet and it was decided that we would have a meal before going to the Tourist Information Office to find a B & B for two nights. We had our meal and looking out of the window we now saw it snowing and blowing, so Grandfather decided he was not going out in the weather if rooms could be booked in the Fife Arms. Marian was due to arrive with more supplies on Saturday, so a double and a twin room was booked for two nights and we settled in for some comfortable nights.
Day 9
Saturday 22nd May – Rest Day at Braemar
A rest day, time to sort out kit, say hallo to Marian, and eat and drink. It became pretty obvious after dinner that Nigel and Richard, understandably, were all for mixing with the lads and finding a pool table in another hotel. I wanted none of it so gave them a few bob for beer and warned them we had seventeen miles to do on Sunday to Ballater.
It appears that Nigel had a good night on the pool table and was drinking with the lads until 3 o’clock!
Day 10
Sunday 23rd May – Braemar to Ballater
Richard and Nigel needed a little stirring after their night out, but we eventually got together for breakfast and prepared to leave Braemar.
It was going to be a long hot day for the two junior members of the team who had had such a good night before. They were faced with 17 miles to camp at Ballater that evening.
The first objective was to get to Invercauld Bridge where we would be able to escape from the traffic on the main road. That achieved, it was very pleasant wandering along towards Balmoral through the park. We passed a huge herd of deer on the way and some of the royal highland cattle. At that stage the two younger members of the team were not showing any signs of the night before but that would come later!
So on to the campsite at Ballater where Richard and Nigel would show the result of the previous late night, and the 17 mile walk that day.
Marian had rejoined us for a very pleasant meal with all the trimmings that evening and Richard and Nigel were quite happy to turn in for the night as soon as the meal was over.
Day 11
Monday 24th May – Ballater to Tarfside
The route for the day was to Tarfside via Mount Keen. Again we were enjoying reasonable weather but knew we had a good days walking in front of us. It’s a long pull uphill before dropping into Glen Tanar, and at a stop for a brew Nigel was still showing signs of Saturday evening, the early hours of Sunday morning, and the 17 miles to Ballater.
However the journey was soon resumed and after a steep climb both reached the summit of Mount Keen.
It was a fairly uneventful descent down the Ladder Burn path and on to Queen’s Well. We stopped some time later for an afternoon brew and the boys were watching the wild life using light weight binoculars which Richard had brought along for that purpose. Nobody knows who was responsible but were left behind at that point and the loss wasn’t discovered until the next morning. We made camp that evening on the Tarfside Games Field along with many more Challengers.
Day 12
Tuesday 25th May – Tarfside to Glen Esk Caravan site
We were now in a position where we were going to have three very short days to the finish. We were only going as far as the Glen Esk caravan site on this day. Richard meanwhile having found that his binoculars were missing decided he would back track to where we had stopped for tea and would then meet up with us at the campsite. His quest was of no avail. Someone else had probably found them and he had to accept they were lost. He caught us up at the caravan site, a good place to stay but one that I had passed on previous times not knowing that there were perfectly good tent facilities there. It was Bill Robertson who told me about this site where when you book in you also get a cup of tea provided!
Day 13
Wednesday 26th May – Glen Esk to Northwater Bridge
This was probably our shortest day as the intention was to stop at North Water Bridge overnight so we only had some 6 miles to cover. The four mile straight did not seem too bad in the early morning and we arrived before 10 o’clock quite fresh. I decided that I should call Roger to let him know we were safe and well and the conversation went something like this:-
“Hallo, Roger, just to let you know we are safe and well and have pitched at Northwater Bridge for the night.”
“What do you mean, Derek. You are at North Water Bridge and you will be in today?”
“No, Roger, we are safe for the night at North Water Bridge and we will be coming in tomorrow.”
In the end Roger realised what it was all about which made him chuckle. We had a pretty restful day and Marian drove us to get the necessary liquid refreshments for the last evening party at North Water Bridge.
Arrangements were made with the campsite management for the recreation room to be left open late that evening so that those who wished could see Manchester United win the European Cup on the television.
Day 14
Thursday 27th May – To St Cyrus & a party at Montrose
So to the final day. No need for a description as it was just a pleasure to be walking towards the finish with my grandson and my son. The age difference was 52 years between Nigel and me but we had enjoyed each others company through 14 days of trekking. It had not been a very severe route, though it had its ups and downs. What it did have was wonderful scenery, mainly good weather and we were finishing in bright sunshine.
THE END